Thames Ditton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Fairy lights, greenery and charming decor create a warm and cosy atmosphere” at this still-expanding group, which is most popular as a “reliable and friendly brunch option”. Its Med-inspired tapas is typically rated somewhere between “tasty” and “nothing special” and scores overall are dragged well down by those experiencing “chaotic service” and “food that doesn’t live up to the pretty dining room”.

2021 Review: A refurbishment/relaunch a few years ago added to the charms of this good all-round boozer, handy pre- or post catching the nags at Sandown Park, whose food was consistently well-rated last year.

Food TV staple José Pizarro’s first outfit outside the capital – and first gastroboozer (with rooms) – is set in “a not-completely-obvious location” in the Surrey ‘burbs. Reviews were slightly muted this year: while most praised the “great modern Spanish food” (including “fabulous tapas”), others noted a lack of atmosphere (“wouldn’t be hard to make it feel a bit more intimate”).

2022 Review: Five minutes’ walk from Norbiton station, “a great local” (dating from 1893) which was revivified in recent times by Hippo Inns with a quality food offering including “a fabulous Sunday roast”. “Well worth a visit if in the local area”.

“Great views of the river” near Teddington Lock undoubtedly elevate a visit to this “welcoming” brasserie and jazz bar; the food also seems to be on an even keel of late, with reports of “well-cooked and enjoyable” dishes (including a “fantastic afternoon tea”) that can seem “surprisingly good given the slightly rickety/plasticky interior”. Best in summer, when you can make the most of the riverside terrace.

A series of converted greenhouses makes an “eccentric but wonderfully romantic setting” for a meal at this posh garden centre, near Ham Polo Club. A shabby-chic culinary hit when it opened under chef Skye Gyngell 20 years ago, it has often stood accused of “hype over substance” – but remains a “personal favourite” to many, especially for the “quite delicious reinvention of afternoon tea”.

Kenneth Culhane’s “superb cooking – inventive within the boundaries of modern British cuisine” – has generated a groundswell of interest in this “unique” venue: an Arts & Crafts home bordering leafy Richmond Park and near the Thames. “The building itself is absolutely stunning and, like the menu, feels both progressive and traditional”; the atmosphere of civilised luxury extends to monthly dinners featuring a classical recital on an antique rosewood Bechstein grand piano.

2021 Review: “Thoughtfully refurbished a few years ago, with a splendid dining room at the rear”, plus “better than average pub food”, and an “excellent and well-kept range of beers on the hand pump” – this Georgian boozer (handy for Twickenham) “ticks all the boxes”. “The Canbury Arms in Kingston upon Thames, which reopened in Spring 2019 after a lengthy refurbishment, is now in the same group” (Pearmain Pubs).

“A great addition to the local Oxshott/Cobham area” – this smartly converted pub in the heart of the plush commuter belt from chef Matt Larcombe and front-of-house Simon King is universally applauded for standards that are a cut above in all respects. But even fans note that “while superb, it’s definitely on the pricey side”, to the extent some consider it “expensive for what it is”. Top Menu Tip – “good and varied wine list”, with one or two trophy vintages (at well over £1,000 per bottle).

The “stunning dining room with spectacular views, high above the Thames” at this grand mid-Victorian hotel in Richmond “retains a fine atmosphere”, and it serves “delicious cakes” at afternoon tea. “Many chefs have been through the kitchen here” and where more serious culinary occasions are concerned, verdicts are split: fans say it is “currently undergoing a renaissance”, but others feel (as they have for years) that “the food is only average and the service likewise”.

“An incredible setting overlooking The Thames at Richmond” anchors the appeal of this “relaxing and enjoyable” dining room, with terrace: part of a small boutique hotel set in gardens right by the river. The “competent and consistent” realisation of high-quality dishes wins nothing but praise for cuisine created by chef Steven Edwards (winner of Masterchef: The Professionals a decade ago), which makes it one of this swanky borough’s top culinary venues.

“Trading on a once-great name but disappointing in every category (except perhaps breakfasts)” – this brasserie brand themed around the Theatreland classic feels “very ‘chain restaurant’ now”. Some reporters do suggest their “comfort food staples” and “buzzy interiors” make them useful destinations, but too many suggest they are “haphazard” and “not a place to return to”.

2022 Review: “A lovely pub on Water Lane leading down to the Thames: now more of a restaurant than a pub” – a smart refit now lends a brasserie vibe to the dining room at this traditional boozer, off Richmond’s picturesque waterfront. The makeover – in late 2019 – was by the Ram Pub Co, which is part of Youngs. Few reports as yet on the rather posh-for-a-pub menu (they serve a selection of oysters, for example), but early feedback says it’s “the food is good, especially the fish”, and for a comfy yet relaxed get-together you could do much worse than a trip here.

2021 Review: The “very pleasant surroundings” of an “excellent dining room overlooking Cannizaro Park” are let down by the consistently disappointing meals and “don’t care” attitude of staff at this Hotel du Vin outfit. “Someone rescue it – it’s a waste of a fantastic space”.

“Definitely on my list of places to eat” – with its “changing menu and great food”, Sam and Alex Berry’s “noisy” operation is a real favourite with locals, including the business set; the ambitious couple’s mini-empire also includes Surbiton restaurants Cento Uno, No. 97 and The Hideaway, plus gin bar/distillery The Good Life, and (most recently) crowdfunded newbie Bone Idyll Gin School, which launched on Kingston’s riverside in September 2022.