Ely, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Lovely home-cooked food without any frills” ensures a continued army of supporters for this “quaint” restaurant and art gallery in a Georgian house just west of the cathedral. Ann Jarman launched the venture in 1968 and it was doing the local, seasonal thing (venison comes from the Denham Estate and dishes feature Norfolk samphire) decades before it was hip; in keeping with her winning ethos, it retains the feel of a family home, being “old-fashioned but in a great way”.

2021 Review: “Modern cuisine using local seasonal produce” wins plaudits for chef-owner Calvin Holland at this upscale village pub. “Surprising and innovative” dishes from the tasting menu sit alongside “simple steak and fish dishes for more traditional diners”. “A recent refurb has created a relaxed seating area where you can enjoy a drink before and after eating”.