Nairn, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Set in 20 acres of manicured gardens and woodland, this fine Georgian property is nowadays a retreat with 10 bedrooms. As part of the set-up, there’s a 400-year-old walled garden, with a cafe. In mid-2022, the team behind this year’s London smash hit, Sessions Art Club (chef Florence Knight, the artist and restaurateur Jonny Gent, and architect Russell Potter) became involved, with a new small-plates format. There are loud echoes of their earlier project – the quirky corner of a historic site – but it opened after our annual diners’ poll concluded so a rating will have to wait for next year.

2023 Review: Phoebe & Graham Fox’s tiny waterside café has long been known for its “lovely food”, which these days is “concentrated on their superb pizzas”. There are “a few outside tables but lots of seats along the harbour with great views”.