Marsh Benham, British, Modern - Restaurant Guide

Despite its sale by Sir Peter Michael and his family in late 2024 to Apex Hotel, this Californian-influenced, Relais & Châteaux property seems to sail on much as it did previously and ratings in our annual diners’ poll have barely budged. There is a cheaper posh-brasserie dining room, but the main event from a culinary point of view is the 28-cover ‘Tasting Room’ added in 2023, with Tom Scade providing a nine course menu for £115 per person, whose breezy fusion-esque style would not look out of place near some Pacific highway. The exceptional wine that was central to Sir Peter’s interest remains a focus, with a cellar capacity of a mind-boggling 30,000 bottles. “The food is beautifully crafted, the surroundings, artwork and wine related material, intriguing. Expensive? Yes, of course…” – something that’s always been an issue here. It can also appear “that they are struggling with trying to simplify a traditional five star offering in a more modern style” and not all reporters feel that balance is always struck. The dominant verdict, though, is that “if you avoid the sillier priced rare wines, you may come away feeling it was worth every penny for such a joyful experience!”. Top Tip – in summer they also run ‘Lobster on the Lawn’ – a sociable dining experience built around fresh Cornish lobster and heritage breed sirloin steak.