Hetton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Leafy views over glorious Dales countryside and the river Wharfe add to the occasion at this attractive hotel, convenient for Bolton Abbey. The cooking – Hardwick lamb, market fish, steaks – is not particularly ‘gastro’ in style but contributes to a comfortable and affordable experience, and one that comes at a reasonable price.

“The original gastropub” – this North Yorks inn has been famous for decades for cuisine that’s unusually accomplished for a pub (featuring, for example, in The Trip, in 2010) and was purchased in 2018 by current owner Michael Wignall, who swept aside its former old-fashioned looks in favour of a stylish, if perhaps “clinical” new interior (“I’ve lost an old friend, but found a bright, young thing!”). All reports agree that he has successfully re-established the place on the UK’s foodie map: the “really interesting and unusual cooking features some unusual pairings and over three hours engaging staff popped up everywhere and are willing to discuss the food, its preparation and its great presentation, all at a very reasonable price”. At dinner, choose from a three-course menu for £110 per person, or there’s a nine-course tasting option for £165 per person.