Eaton Socon, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “lovely ‘olde worlde’ village pub” (dating from the Tudor era) puts in a “consistently assured performance” under Martyn & Jayne Lee, owners since 2005, with “terrific food and excellent service” – “nothing much changes (which is not a criticism!)”.

This ivy-clad Georgian coaching inn is the “a top destination for wine in Cambridgeshire” – and “also a good all-rounder” – thanks to its long ownership by Master of Wine, John Hoskins. “Sadly” for their many admirers, John and his wife Julia sold up after 29 years in summer 2023, although the new owners, East Anglia’s Chestnut Group, have promised a ‘seamless transition’ with minimal changes.

Open again from October 2023 (shortly after our guide goes to press) – this “lovely thatched pub just off the westbound A14 trunk road” is ‘under exciting new management’ (at least that’s what the website says…). It received consistent praise as a “go-to place for many years”, with good-value cuisine and a high-quality wine list – here’s hoping that continues.