The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy trekked by bus, train, ferry and taxi to the shores of Loch Fyne, where his year “visionary” chef Pam Brunton is celebrating a decade at “the most radical and exciting restaurant in Scotland”.
Here, Chitra found “cooking that makes you think – but don’t panic, it’s delicious too”. She enjoyed leaves, pods, shoots and berries she had never encountered before on a plate (cucamelon, grilled leaf of goosefoot, candied pine cones), as well as more familiar oysters, langoustines, mackerel and mutton.
Most impressive of all was a simple-sounding but “ravishing” bread-and-butter broth: “Yes, a soup made from waste produce and thrifty Scots nous is one of the most exciting things I’ve eaten in five years on the job… Eating Brunton’s food is like eating the best idea of Scotland. Her dishes carry an atmosphere that stays with you.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-10-05
Drinks
Extras
