The Observer
Tanya Gold hailed the new restaurant from chef Tom Sellers overlooking “the most pristine and eerie beach in Cornwall” at the Carbis Bay Hotel, host to the world’s leaders for the G7 meeting five years ago, where she found cooking of perfection and honesty behind the headline luxury.
“Sellers has done what great chefs do,” Tanya declared, “he has made a new reality, as transient as it is lovely”, with plates including “exquisite” tomato salad, “simple and wondrous” cuttlefish that’s “southern Italy in a dish”, and bass that “tastes glorious, because Sellers has done very little with it”.
“Lamb is, guiltily, my favourite meat, and this tells me why: no other meat has this sweetness – I almost wrote innocence but recoiled from myself – and bloody wetness.” The madeleines are baked to order and look like apples from a fairy story, being green (seaweed dust) and red (blackcurrant powder). “They are still warm as if living; they deserve to be a famous dish.”
Tanya Gold - 2026-09-27
