The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell loathed Tom Sellers’s well-known flagship Story in London, but took a very different view of the chef’s “stylish and beautiful” new spot in a Cornish seaside hotel – “think of it as an epicurean spaceship”.
The starters and pud – hot and cold scallops, tuna loin and a miraculously light date tart – were excellent enough, but William was bowled over by the “rustic Spanish charm” of a shared main dish unromantically named ‘Oven-Baked Crisp Seafood Rice’ (“but then not even a great poet could do justice to its magnificence”).
This consisted of a large bowl of rice cooked till crisp and bobbing with scallops, prawns, mussels and chunks of fish, along with dollops of rouille, fried quail’s eggs and wisps of pancetta. “It was a dish of unending joy as each return, each morsel, each scrape of rice from the edge provided visceral, blissful pleasure…. I felt that no food in my life before or after could measure up to this happy glory of communal comfort.”
William Sitwell - 2026-09-01
