The Times
Giles Coren lined his stomach ahead of an evening swilling beer with a visit to a “clean, spare, functional Malaysian café” in Summertown with both “a standard Chinese menu you can ignore and a Malaysian one you can’t, full of authentic nonya standards done brilliantly and cheaply”.
He stuffed himself with “light, flaky roti chanai” and chicken curry sauce, a “huge” Singapore laksa, and battered deep-fried chicken “with a hefty spoonful of Marmite in the glaze that simultaneously baffled the hell out of and delighted me”.
“None of these were the subtlest, but the fully Malaysian family crowd when I walked in were happy as anything”. As was Giles.
Giles Coren - 2025-03-16
Drinks
Extras
