The Sunday Times
Charlotte Ivers was enthralled by a tiny new spot where all the cooking is theatrically done on “a coal-fired grill, a pizza oven and one of those Green Egg barbecues that every middle-class bloke in Britain salivates over”.
It is from Matt Nellany and Jamie Pickles of Northern Quarter burger and pub classics restaurant Trof, but “what they’re cooking here is far more exciting”. Dishes ranged from scorched milk bread and beetroot with honey and ricotta to Tuscan-style borlotti beans and pork and fennel sausages and more French-influenced brined chicken in buttery tarragon sauce.
Best of all was a side of potatoes with garlic, shavings of Corra Linn sheep’s milk cheese and “enough butter to throw your health indicators off for a year”. “On my deathbed I will think not of those I love or those I have wronged, but of these long, crunchy ratte potatoes,” Charlotte insisted, reworking a line she used a few months ago.
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-01-26
Drinks
Extras
