Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles sampled a restaurant that takes Nikkei cuisine (a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese) a few steps further with the introduction of Cantonese and Spanish accents. Coco Sasaki, the executive chef, and childhood friends Romina Parra and Santiago Wong “show they have talent to burn”.
There were two problems with his meal: the lighting was too bright – “like being caught in a Colditz spotlight. Seriously, I’ve seen darker supernovas” – and service lacked rhythm: “we wait. And wait and wait and wait. Planets implode, civilisations rise and fall. And still we wait. OK, so the room is full. But a good restaurant needs a rhythm…”
Nevertheless, Tom rated the cooking “sublime” and he worked his way through tiraditos (“a Peruvian take on sashimi”), ceviches, tuna, tempura and foie gras, to declare: “there’s rarely a dull bite.”
Tom Parker Bowles - 2025-10-12
