Roganic

"This was a tour de force of modern-day cooking and some unusual, very good, wines backed up with top-class front of house to present the diner with a formidable fine-dining experience. Lovely light pastry for sweetcorn tart with the taste and texture of eel coming through, liquorice black garlic with moreish truffle pudding, gorgeous fishy seaweed custard with crispy seaweed on top, crisp oyster matched with beef tartare both strong yet combining beautifully, and then a marvellous concoction of crispy chicken skin and cod roe emulsion with sweet raw carrot rounds on top matched with a perfect Italian ribolla gialla brought the first act to a close. An inspired interlude of superb soda bread topped with oat flakes prepared us perfectly for the next sequence - hen of the woods mushrooms with sweet butternut squash and kohlrabi with the tongue and the palate seemingly assailed by separate elements, then baby gem lettuce serving as a background for the striking truffle and shimeji tastes, great Cornish cod deliberately served cool with dehydrated tomatoes and wonderful cod’s roe sauce, surprising beetroot cooked inside 14-day dried duck with aerated potato topped with super-rich duck leg, a brilliant palate cleanser of Tunworth cheese with an amazing cherry and hazelnut sprinkle countering any over-richness, and finally, of all things, London fig leaf ice cream and caramelised apple on the lightest puff pastry. Once again we asked ourselves whether we would be so impressed everywhere else in the Simon Rogan empire."

"Fantastic flavours and excellent service. The business set lunch at £35 is a) very impressive and efficiently done and b) a steal. "