Harden's survey result
“The closest you can get to L’Enclume without travelling to the lakes” – Simon Rogan delivers “stunning concoctions (your imagination can really run riot)” at his year-old Fitzrovian, which offers either a seven-course or ten-course evening tasting menu (or, at lunchtime, a three-course option). “Although not as glitzy as his stint at Fera at Claridges, the food is just as good”. But “if the cuisine is undoubtedly Michelin-quality, the venue is less so” – the former premises of L’Autre Pied, which remain “rather bland” and “cramped”. Top Tip – “the utterly divine Tunworth cheese (cake) and caviar dessert (which sounds wrong, but which actually works”).
Simon Rogan’s 2011 pop-up has been resurrected as a permanent fixture, replacing L’Autre Pied (RIP) – the most recent inhabitant of this “odd” (“cramped” and “slightly bleak”) Marylebone site – and offering either short (eight-course) or standard (over 12 courses) tasting menus. “Sometimes you want simple, delicious food, sometimes you want refinement and sophistication, and sometimes you want a meal that pushes things even further: this is a mix of sophistication and pushing-things-further, from single mouthfuls to fuller, complex, flavour-packed dishes”, with “stunning presentation (every dish is a work of art) and divine tastes”. Even so, there are one or two who feel that “while it’s inventive and good, it’s also overpriced with miniscule portions and you leave wondering what you’ve had”. Top Menu Tip – the easiest way to dip your toe in the water here is the short, £35, business tasting menu.
Roganic Restaurant Diner Reviews
"This was a tour de force of modern-day cooking and some unusual, very good, wines backed up with top-class front of house to present the diner with a formidable fine-dining experience. Lovely light pastry for sweetcorn tart with the taste and texture of eel coming through, liquorice black garlic with moreish truffle pudding, gorgeous fishy seaweed custard with crispy seaweed on top, crisp oyster matched with beef tartare both strong yet combining beautifully, and then a marvellous concoction of crispy chicken skin and cod roe emulsion with sweet raw carrot rounds on top matched with a perfect Italian ribolla gialla brought the first act to a close. An inspired interlude of superb soda bread topped with oat flakes prepared us perfectly for the next sequence - hen of the woods mushrooms with sweet butternut squash and kohlrabi with the tongue and the palate seemingly assailed by separate elements, then baby gem lettuce serving as a background for the striking truffle and shimeji tastes, great Cornish cod deliberately served cool with dehydrated tomatoes and wonderful cod’s roe sauce, surprising beetroot cooked inside 14-day dried duck with aerated potato topped with super-rich duck leg, a brilliant palate cleanser of Tunworth cheese with an amazing cherry and hazelnut sprinkle countering any over-richness, and finally, of all things, London fig leaf ice cream and caramelised apple on the lightest puff pastry. Once again we asked ourselves whether we would be so impressed everywhere else in the Simon Rogan empire."
"Fantastic flavours and excellent service. The business set lunch at £35 is a) very impressive and efficiently done and b) a steal. "
|Wine per bottle||£28.00|
5-7 Blandford St, London, W1U 3DB
|Number of Diners:|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9:15 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9:15 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑9:15 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑1:30 pm, 5:30 pm‑9:15 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑1:30 pm, 5:30 pm‑9:15 pm|