The Guardian
Grace Dent headed to a new Parisian-inspired wine bar close to Carnaby’s dreaded Kingly Court with the lowest of expectations – and was delighted to find herself in a basement with a kitchen presided over by a “brilliant” chef in Giacomo Peretti, formerly of Le Gavroche, Temper, Firebird and the Culpeper.
“Surprise! This is actually, and quite unexpectedly, a restaurant with serious food; in fact, it might well be the most earnest, accomplished, imaginative food being served in this square mile right now.”
Some of the dishes sounded strange, even off-putting, but all were “truly, madly good”: among them, “gooey chicken liver ‘rocher’ – think rich, nutty, nibblable savoury Ferrero Rocher”; a “delicate and rather bizarre lamb tartare dotted with spring vegetables, goat’s cheese and a tiny fresh strawberry”; “a bowl of escargots with seaweed in a silky pinewood cream”; “a stinky, slightly warm piece of runny brie de Meaux served with lush fresh apricot”; and “tempura courgette, almost like cigars to look at, dotted with trout roe and rouille”.
Grace Dent - 2025-07-06
Drinks
Extras
