The Times
Charlotte Ivers advised neophites against developing a taste for Japanese food, given that it is so expensive in Britain – it “really is an opportunity to eat your way out of solvency,” she warned. “It’s like developing a taste for expensive whisky: save yourself the bother.”
But for those (like herself) already in its thrall, she would recommend this new izakaya where she and a guest ate (and shared a bottle of sake) for a total of £216: “you’re not eating Japanese food like this for the money anywhere else in the UK.”
With a counter and a sunken back room “decorated in a manner somewhere between a Norwegian sauna and an industrial-chic hotel bar”, Himi provided plate after plate of dishes distinguished by umami – “that wonderful, earthy, brothy taste to it. If you aren’t a disciple of the fifth taste, eat somewhere else. If you are, this is paradise.”
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-04-27