The Sunday Times
A few minutes’ walk along Portobello Road, Laura Pullman sampled the tacos at Hollywood hardman Danny Trejo’s taqueria, having first sampled Trejo’s repertoire of gangster memories in an interview with the tattooed almost octogenarian, who “spent a decade being menacing in prison, following a childhood of being menacing, selling drugs, stealing cars and robbing shops with a sawn-off shotgun. Or, occasionally, a grenade.
“Now, in an unlikely twist of fate, he is hawking tacos to the Hooray Henrys and Trust Fund Tabithas of Notting Hill.”
Sadly, though, “Trejo’s tacos are not as exciting as his anecdotes.” For Laura is no tacophile, and insists that “a decent taco is only ever a decent taco rather than anything transcendental.”
Nor is the place well run. At dinner the day after her interview, “service is chaotic. Jalapeño-spiked margaritas take 20 minutes to arrive, one taco dish goes missing, dirty plates stack up. If only Trejo was here to glower things into order.”
Laura Pullman - 2024-05-05
