Harden's survey result
A “delightful Sardinian take on seafood and fresh fish” is the successful focus of this Belgravia venue – part of Mauro Sanna’s Olivo group – whose “honest and low key” style makes it an enduring and popular destination. But while “the food speaks for itself”, the interior “feels rather cramped and clinical”.
“Memorably succulent fish” is the acclaimed highlight of Mauro Sanna’s “cosmopolitan” Sardinian in Belgravia, which on many accounts is an accomplished and “enjoyably hustling and bustling” all-rounder. To some tastes however, the idiosyncratic decor is more soulless than it is stylish, and the odd blip on service also hit ratings this year.
“Low-key sophistication” is the hallmark of the “sensationally good” Sardinian seafood cooking of Mauro Sanna’s well-established Belgravian. The “odd decor” (“Alice in Wonderland with an austere look”) is thought “very cool” by its fans, but the consensus is that it’s “soulless”.
Stark, “Barbarella-esque” decor creates a “bare-bones” ambience at this very “contemporary” Belgravian; this “does nothing to detract”, however, from the “brilliant and resolutely Sardinian menu”, majoring in “super-fresh” fish and seafood; the wine list’s “a joy” too.
Olivomare Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Two recent visits to this lovely Sardinian restaurant specialising in seafood have not disappointed. The price for lunch is a bit steep, at £60-70 a head, but the freshness and range of fish make this worthwhile. The service is attentive without being overbearing and the wine list has many lovely options that are excellent pairings to the fish and seafood."
"Must have been an off day - a bit tasteless"
|Wine per bottle||£28.00|
If anyone wants to see how London restaurants have evolved over the past two decades, they could do much worse than a brief walking tour of the various branches of the Olivo franchise. The original restaurant near Victoria, offering Sardinian specialities, seemed almost exotic when it opened back in 1991. Its tasty cooking still makes it popular today, but the design seems very basic by current standards. Half a decade later, a heart-of-Belgravia pizzeria offshoot, Olivetto, followed - its minimalist interior shows how things had moved on. And now there's Olivomare,- with its striking monochrome styling, an outstanding example of contemporary restaurant design.
Once you know that Olivomare is a 'fish specialist' - and just off Chester Square to boot - it's tempting to assume that it's going to be a very fancy place, with prices to match. It turns out however that this is more a very superior contemporary trattoria where the food all happens to be fishy rather than some would-be temple-of-gastronomy with a menu full of obscure and overpriced specialities.
In fact, you wouldn't need to spend anything approaching a fortune here to find yourself sitting very happily among the Belgravia set. We tried two sorts of pasta, as well as sea bass with couscous (also available from the hyper-elegant adjoining deli/wine-shop, Olivino), and shared a large portion of tiramisu. Everything was really very good. Downsides? Well, they charged for the bread: the only possible off-note in what was otherwise a uniformly charming dining experience.
10 Lower Belgrave St, London, SW1W 0LJ
|Monday||12 pm-2:30 pm, 7 pm-11 pm|
|Tuesday||12 pm-2:30 pm, 7 pm-11 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm-2:30 pm, 7 pm-11 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm-2:30 pm, 7 pm-11 pm|
|Friday||12 pm-2:30 pm, 7 pm-11 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm-3 pm, 7 pm-11 pm|
|Sunday||12:30 pm-3:30 pm, 7 pm-10:30 pm|