The Times
Jay Rayner found himself “raging with enthusiasm, not waving but dribbling”, at a passion project from four hospitality veterans who met while working at big upscale operations (Zuma, Four Seasons Hotel) and are now focused on the simple mission announced in the front window: ‘Seafood + Wine’.
HIs meal opened with a tasting of olive oils (one of their passions) that are “so virgin, so unsullied, they make dedicated nuns look debauched”. To follow, fish combined with summer fruits, as in tuna tartare with grilled peach or grilled mackerel fillet with sweet Vesuvian tomatoes and melon. Four of the five pasta dishes are “designed to show off seafood to the very best of its advantage”. Seared monkfish is served with batons of crispy pig cheek, broad bean puree and bitter braised chickory. Wine is offered by the glass from a blackboard menu. Nothing is showy; everything is delicious.
“Baccalà is that joyous but all too rare thing: the small but perfectly formed restaurant, where the cooking is terrific, the wine list is smart and it lets you find out all about it for yourself.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-09-01
