RestaurantsLondonSouthwarkSE1

Harden's says

Taking over the former Rabot 1745 site at Borough Market in March, a Greek steetfood specialist with a 2-metre rotisserie cooking whole lamb and pig on the spit. Upstairs, opening in April, is the more laid-back Oma, with a raw bar. The team behind the pair have good pedigrees, including Manteca, Kiln and Sabor.

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Have you eaten at Agora?

2 - 4 Bedale Street, London, SE1 9AL

What the Newspaper Critics are saying

Evening Standard

Back on more familiar positive-review territory, Jimi Famurewa enjoyed some “surprising and utterly scintillating” cooking at David Carter’s “twin-pack of blockbusting Borough Market openings”, a Greek-inspired upstairs-and-downstairs pair which “draw their power from a kind of sophisticated primality”.

Although Agora (meaning market) is “almost illegally fun” on a Friday night, Jimi feels that its food sometimes lacks direction. “In my view Oma, the Greek word for ‘raw’, is the one to go for.”

The occasional intrusion of non-Greek elements – XO sauce from China, ceviche from Mexico – showed that Colombian chef Jorge Paredes was more interested “gently heretical capturing of culinary essence” rather than authenticity. All the better, in Jimi’s view: “the combination of ancient Greek simplicity and definably London gastronomic rule-breaking is nothing short of, well, epic.”

Jimi Famurewa - 2024-05-05
2 - 4 Bedale Street, London, SE1 9AL

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