Evening Standard
Guest reviewer Henry Southan sang the praises of an old stager of a restaurant near Regent’s Park, where “nothing appears to have changed since 1982 because nothing has ever seen the need to”. Four beautifully cooked queenie scallops appeared before his starter, and Henry noticed that all the other tables had received the same surprise. “Generosity, it turns out, is simply how the place does business… At one point I found myself asking them to stop bringing food, which is laughable.”
The cooking was mostly excellent but not quite perfect. Lobster bisque was “rich and deeply savoury” and roast duck had “glorious crisp skin” but the meat was overcooked, while “tarte tatin bore little resemblance to the neat French classic”, although the apples were deeply caramelised.
But Henry was not in a mood to chide. “In a London restaurant scene obsessed with novelty, reinvention and the next big thing, Oslo Court has quietly spent decades pursuing something far simpler: making people feel genuinely looked after.”
Henry Southan - 2026-07-26
