The Sunday Times
Giles Coren, a long-time devotee of Malaysian restaurants, could hardly believe his luck when one of his favourites – Med Salleh Kopitiam in Bayswater – unveiled a new branch within walking distance of his north London home. He arrived for lunch at 12.01 on the opening day (pipped to the post by a couple who were already seated), and sampled his way through the menu in four subsequent visits over the next fortnight.
Almost everything was absolutely up to scratch: classic char kuey teow noodles; “terrific, hot and fluffy-crispy” roti canai with a dipping bowl of chicken curry; “delicious, plump” chicken satay; Hainanese chicken rice; curry laksa “heaving with clams, prawns, cuttlefish, chicken and halves of boiled egg” — a gigantic, luxurious meal in itself for £16.90. The one exception was Malaysian stuffed tofu, “which was too sweet for me and I don’t recommend”.
It may even be better than Kopitiam, thanks to a bespoke kitchen section which allows it to serve its USP – claypot rice and noodles from founder Med’s hometown of Kampar. Giles enjoyed both the salted fish claypot chicken rice, “where the dried oily fish lent deep and fascinating umami to the broth-simmered rice”, and an “excellent” claypot seafood soup.
Giles Coren - 2026-04-12
