Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles headed for a bleakly anonymous industrial estate beside a building site in distant west London to a venue formerly known as ‘Meat & Grill’ – “not the sort of place you’d stumble across… But if it’s chilli-charged, smoke-scented Hunan-style Chinese cooking you’re after, you won’t find finer than this.”
Chef/owner Cui Yaohua works in a kitchen about the size of a double bed manning “wok burners so fierce that they require a constant stream of cooling water. He cooks alone, battling great licks of flame, a warrior standing firm against the ever-swelling armies of orders. You can hear the roar of gas, the sizzle as meat meets steel. This man is a master.”
Along with the heat, there’s plenty of magic: “sublime”, tender kidney ‘flowers’, wood ear mushrooms, comforting scrambled eggs with tomato, plump, juicy crystal prawns, as pure as they are delicate. “This is some of the best regional Chinese cooking in London. Just don’t go expecting a view.”
Tom Parker Bowles - 2026-06-28
