Harden's survey result
“Always buzzing” – this “great little place” in Camden Town features “consistently good and interesting food from a subtly changing menu”, prepared with “locally sourced ingredients”; “strongly recommended”.
A no-nonsense English bistro, near Camden Town tube; a friendly sort of place, it offers plain cooking - in a style which, until recently, might have been called 'domestic' - at reasonable prices.
First, in the early '90s, we had what we now call gastropubs. By the late-'90s, a retro-style of English cooking was beginning to evolve (or, more accurately, be rediscovered), which might be described - for want of any better term - as gastropub-style cooking. Then, by the mid-00s, people were beginning to figure out that there wasn't any necessary affinity between gastropub-style cooking and former public houses.
Recent times have seen the creation of establishments such as 32 Great Queen Street, which - being asssociated with the famous Anchor & Hope - has all the style of a gastropub, but no pub. In a different way, the smart modernist Canteen chain has also made quite a success by disassociating gastropub-style cooking from the gastropub-style environment.
And so things go full circle, and we now see establishments such as Market, which is for all the world like a classic no-nonsense Gallic bistro (or café, as the French might call it), except for the fact that everything about it is resolutely English. Mackerel pÃ¢te 'n' toast, pollack 'n' chips, fruit crumble 'n' custard - that's the sort of fare you find done here. And all - on the basis of our lunch for three - consistently done very well here.
Look out for more establishments like this - we hope they're all done as well.
43 Parkway, London, NW1 7PN
Mon - Fri noon - 2.30 pm, 6 pm - 10.30 pm; Sat 11 am - 3 pm, 6 pm - 10.30 pm; Sun 11 am - 3 pm
Last orders: Mon - Sat 10.30 pm; Sun 3 pm