The Sunday Times
Giles Coren suspended his long-held aversion to natural wine and witnessed the future of dining at a bottle shop-turned-dedicated restaurant on the ‘York Way Riviera’, whose kitchen is run by “wunderkind” chef Aidan Richardson.
A Languedoc red called Chateau Beauregard Mirouze, served chilled, was both “insanely cheap” at £5 a glass and “actually rather delicious”. It also went well with the flavour profile of the “young people’s food” on the menu, which erred “towards the sharper, pickled and fermented end of the spectrum (which of course makes natural wines, with their inherent cideriness, taste a bit sweeter).”
The food was excellent, most notably a side dish of ‘slow-cooked grilled short-rib rice’ and a pork chop with fiery apricot and scotch bonnet relish, while the venue was noisy thanks to its loud music and the shrill chatter of a young, mainly female clientele. “Half Cut is cool as f*** and Aidan rocks,” Giles proclaimed. “If you have a daughter (or granddaughter) to treat after A levels, bring her here and she’ll love you for ever.”
Giles Coren - 2026-06-28
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