Evening Standard
Jimi Famurewa hailed the Spanish-accented makeover of a derelict chippy, by Four Legs chef Ed McIroy (Plimsoll and the Compton Arms), as “both a justified candidate for opening of the year and a reminder of what a confident, singular and beguilingly weird restaurant city we have.”
Quite apart from the “rowdy, cross-cultural brilliance” of combining old and new, British and Spanish, “classically coded cooking” and a casual environment, the Tollington team have “also imported the continental belief that eating and drinking well, rather than being an expensive luxury, is an inalienable right”.
Jimi’s most memorable dish was a case in point: “Beef dripping in London chippies is a rarity these days but here it is put to spectacular use for chips bravas: fat, hand-cut potatoes, cooked to a perfect, sweet-edged and tallowy gold crisp, and slopped in a messy Rojigualda of housemade aioli and punchy, warm salsa brava. With apologies to justifiably aggrieved vegetarians, they really may be the best chips in London.”
Jimi Famurewa - 2024-07-14
