Evening Standard
David Ellis was puzzled at this pop-up-gone-permanent restaurant from Joo Won, the Korean-born former head chef at the Galvin Brothers’ Windows. If his ambition was to produce London’s best Korean food, David said, he had fallen short despite some real triumphs – including the “near perfect” signature fried chicken, let down by too much sugar in its chilli and peanut sauce.
Also problematic was the “absent-minded and faintly bewildered” service – “as though perhaps they’d been pinched from a local Hare Krishna meet, or wandered in to eat and unwittingly been put to work”.
But if Joo’s ambition was to “draw a local crowd to his cool wine bar/bistro, and give them something they’ve not had before, and at a price which feels very fair” – then in David’s view “he has sprinted past his own finish line, even if quality control needs a beadier eye”.
David Ellis - 2025-03-16
