Evening Standard
David Ellis gave qualified praise to a Greek restaurant that was rammed with student-age guests on a rainy Monday lunchtime, apparently because Dua Lipa had recommended it.
In its favour, “the place is shruggingly stylish, in that no make-up make-up sort of way”, and there are some tasty things in the menu – in particular a hunk of Anthotyros cheese with thyme-spiked olive oil and a neat cube of fresh honeycomb: “My God, was it good — take the knife and coat this soft cheese in plenty of the oil and a little honeycomb. The sweetness echoed across our tongues.”
The dips, chicken thighs and a citrussy sea-bass soup called kakavia were also good, but “oyster mushrooms had been reduced to a stringy, chewy mess in an unremarkable onion broth”, service was unappealingly brusque and the room a bit tight: “I had to fight to keep my elbows from resting on the table next door”.
David Ellis - 2026-03-01Evening Standard
David Ellis gave qualified praise to a Greek restaurant that was rammed with student-age guests on a rainy Monday lunchtime, apparently because Dua Lipa had recommended it.
In its favour, “the place is shruggingly stylish, in that no make-up make-up sort of way”, and there are some tasty things in the menu – in particular a hunk of Anthotyros cheese with thyme-spiked olive oil and a neat cube of fresh honeycomb: “My God, was it good — take the knife and coat this soft cheese in plenty of the oil and a little honeycomb. The sweetness echoed across our tongues.”
The dips, chicken thighs and a citrussy sea-bass soup called kakavia were also good, but “oyster mushrooms had been reduced to a stringy, chewy mess in an unremarkable onion broth”, service was unappealingly brusque and the room a bit tight: “I had to fight to keep my elbows from resting on the table next door”.
David Ellis - 2026-03-01
