Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles reckoned the playful and broadly European menu at Jackson Boxer’s new restaurant “reads like a well-crafted thriller. It grabs you by the gut and makes the heart pump harder.”
The highlights of his meal included a half chicken that was “all charred skin and buxom flesh, the juices shot through with an elegant acidic swathe”, and a plate of crab-fat rice with brown crab meat that was “a joyous, sun-baked Balearic blast of pure crustacean bosk”.
“Boxer was always a talented chef,” Tom concluded. “He’s now proved himself, once and for all, as a very serious restaurateur.”
Tom Parker Bowles - 2026-09-01The Observer
Tanya Gold braved the throng to review a fashionable new venue from prolific chef-restaurateur Jackson Boxer (of Brunswick House in Vauxhall and Dove in Notting Hill), warning that “I tend to approach fashionable restaurants with caution.”
Her caution was not misplaced. She found the interior both self-consciously undecorated and packed, with insufficient space for a human to squeeze between the tables or for plates to sit on the table – which, she said, “would be fine, if the food were better. But it isn’t as good as it thinks it is.”
The “already blog-famous” crisps were OK, “but the problem with over-exposed crisps is that they can never live up to their billing because they are crisps”. Fried potato pizzette was a “cold almost-pizza of the damned”, and baked saffron and crab-fat rice was “sullen, over-cooked and squat”. A rare triumph, chicken that was “marvellously sticky, vital and beautiful”, could not undo the damage.
Tanya concluded: “I am not a fashionable person, but I know what I have eaten: spin.”
Tanya Gold - 2026-09-20
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