Evening Standard
Alasdair Gill, a chef himself and the son of late Sunday Times restaurant critic Adrian (AA) Gill, visited Elliot Kaye’s follow-up to Norman’s Café in Archway, which closed a year ago, and found himself worrying about its billing as a ‘cocktail-led fusion restaurant’ – “fusion is usually a one-night gimmick, something you try once and leave with a renewed appreciation for the original”.
Marrion’s fusion is between French bistro and American diner, “which at least feels a little more plausible”, and Alasdair found that the place “grew on me”, with dishes like moules-frites “as they should be”, and a cheeseburger “best described as how you’d expect an elderly Parisian to tart up a Big Mac. It retains the indecent nostalgia.”
The key to Marrion’s success, Alasdair felt, was the “restraint” with which it goes about fusing cuisines, which meant it avoided becoming “a restaurant about its own concept”.
Alasdair Gill - 2026-10-18
