The Sunday Times
Camilla Long found much to ridicule at what she called a “trendy elevated barbecue spot” overlooking “Hackney’s muckscape” – a “blistering caveman manspace” with a “huge, steel 500-gallon barbecue [that] sits like a priapic Stephenson’s Rocket at the entrance”, and shoddy service that failed to match the restaurant-level prices.
As for the Texas/Asian food, “I’m not going to pretend the tofu was OK,” she grumbled. “Five slices of cold, grey soy with chillies, coriander sprinkled over the top, swimming in some greasy tasteless linctus – it was like eating pressed dandruff.”
But some of the dishes, Camilla had to admit, were “outstanding”, including melting cubes of Taiwanese pork belly that were “wobblingly soft, like seared foie gras, pork flavour hovering like a mirage”; an “incredible brick of succulent short-rib beef that’s drenched and black with peppery Sichuan sauce”; and a terrific side of rice topped with beef dripping.
Camilla Long - 2026-09-01
