Evening Standard
David Ellis was completely seduced by the new upstairs restaurant above the recently reopened Knave of Clubs pub, hailing it as “E1’s answer to The Dover, Mayfair’s wood-panelled, come-hither martini den”.
“This is an easy place to adore,” he said, hailing “the best drinks list I can remember: sharpeners of £10 negronis; four types of martini; a Hemingway daiquiri,” alongside a food menu that “matches the mastery of the cocktail list. It is Paris spied through a New Yorker’s telescope”, with such delights as “French onion soup thick enough to eat with a fork and as sweet and rich and comforting as a wealthy, elderly aunt writing you into the will”.
It’s also very good value. “No one’s being taken for a ride. It’s as though they want their customers to actually enjoy themselves. Can you imagine?”
David Ellis - 2025-04-27The Guardian
Grace Dent welcomed this purposely shabby-chic upstairs dining room a with “heady, tipsy, twinkly atmosphere” as a “thrilling, retro glimpse of mindlessness” in our era of health-conscious mindfulness.
Like similar establishments including the Devonshire off Piccadilly Circus and the Plimsoll in Finsbury Park, One Club Row offers “battered stuff, things in buns, strong drinks – and the sense that, at any point, you might cop off with one of Shed Seven or Wendy from Transvision Vamp”.
Chef Patrick Powell’s cooking is heartier, less “fine dining” here than at his former restaurant, Allegra in Stratford, but Grace was more than happy with that. “There are croquettes filled with lobster and ham, roast scallops in confit garlic butter and thick French onion soup topped with comté and gruyere.”
Grace Dent - 2025-05-04The Times
Charlotte Ivers visited another new spot that has opened to critical acclaim, “a little restaurant above a pub” where she instantly felt “there’s nowhere on earth that could possibly be more fun at this precise moment” – “and they have a taxi light outside to show if there are tables available for walk-ins. I love it.”
Combining East London, New York, Jeremy King-style grand café and something new of its own, “it’s a glorious mix of classic and modern… that urges you to empty your bank account”. The best things she ate were barbecued asparagus on labneh with hazelnut and lemon, and pork schnitzel with mustard sauce and – in an “inspired” touch – blobs of tangy, salty gorgonzola.
Charlotte Ivers - 2025-06-01
Drinks
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