The Guardian
Grace Dent was impressed by the “darkly chic” follow-up to Angelina in Dalston, which follows a similar Milan-meets-Tokyo culinary approach that “will offend purists everywhere, but being upset has never been so delicious”.
Focaccia is topped with nori, tempura’d courgette flowers are stuffed with miso ricotta, bream is cured in kombu and doused in burnt butter, while hamachi sashimi is smothered in truffled soy. The pasta dishes are finished with Japanese touches, while meat and fish are grilled over bincho-tan charcoal, the Angus steak drenched in miso mutter and served with Japanese greens and pickles.
“There’s a lot to adore about all of this cooking; it’s generous, oily, saucy and certainly not to be eaten every day,” Grace purred. “Every plate we tried swam in some variation on spiced, seasoned, miso-flecked oil that would have been a terrible waste to consign to the dishwasher.”
Grace Dent - 2025-06-08
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