Evening Standard
David Ellis had a rotten time at a place that bills itself as a ‘seafood bistro of the future’ but was so bad that he asked himself: "Is this what restaurants are now? Or have I accidentally reviewed a piece of experimental theatre?”
The meal got off to a poor start, with a “mini ‘oyster’ martini" that "tasted the way I imagine dead roses might. But better than the actual oysters, here milky and heavily spawning”. Monkfish skewers were overcooked, while “octopus chunks were chewy, and cooked on a grill that can’t have been hot enough; never mind blackened, the tentacles barely had a tan.” Hake in pangrattato was merely “dull”, but smoked eel and egg yolk raviolo “was plated so disastrously that I wondered if it had met the floor before the china”.
Were there any redeeming features? Yes! The fries were crisp, hot and well salted: “Whoever’s on potatoes needs a raise,” David suggested.
David Ellis - 2025-08-10
Drinks
Extras
