The Guardian
Grace Dent was very taken by the “second sprouting” (boom-boom) of a vegan outfit from Notting Hill, which this time round has modified its stance to be merely vegetarian. Not, Grace hastened to add, as in “junk-food veggie such as Lewis Hamilton’s beleaguered Neat Burger”, or retro Cranks-style “where you end up knee-deep in pulses, nut roasts and elderflower claret”.
Instead, there’s an “elegant, classic restaurant vibe – some tables even have tablecloths, for example. Yes, tablecloths are back in restaurants” – and a menu of dishes that takes in the “real beauty” of a British king oyster mushroom vol-au-vent with buttery peppercorn and dulse sauce; a fresh and pillowy Georgian-style khachapuri that “may well be Spitalfields’ best new brunch dish”; “sexy” tofu croquettes with smoked carrot XO and mustard greens; and a tempeh and smoked tofu schnitzel served on a lake of aromatic Café de Paris butter and topped with celeriac remoulade.
“This is serious plant-based dining… as good as it gets on my side of the leafy, cruciferous fence.”
Grace Dent - 2026-04-19
