The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell urged readers to “do whatever it takes” to eat at a tiny six-seater Japanese restaurant where chef Kaoru Nakamura serves a 20-course omakase menu (he also runs Hana Matsuri in the city).
“The path of plates was beautifully constructed, a hand-held journey from seaweed to cake, each dish cut, pressed or torched and laid before you by the chef, who wielded his knife like a possessed alchemist before, occasionally, disappearing behind an orange curtain.”
William Sitwell - 2026-03-01