The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy was one of the first evening guests at “the most exciting new restaurant in East Lothian”, on the restored Papple Steading estate in the Lammermuir foothills. Named after organic farming pioneer Dame Eve Balfour, founder of the Soil Association, who grew up on the estate, its menu is overseen by the “fantastic” Scott Smith (Fhior, Norn) and the kitchen led by Chris O’Connor (ex-the Caledonian, Edinburgh).
The “confident, ingredient-led cookery” is exemplified by barbecued monkfish served with an exceptional pearl barley risotto – “profoundly creamy, chewy, hearty and Scottish…. traditional yet modern, and unique.”
One black mark from Chitra, though: “what’s with Koffmann fries when the best new potatoes can be dug from the earth at this time of year?”
chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-06-01
