Daily Mail
Tom Parker Bowles cheered the opening of the “most ambitious project yet” from the team behind The Beckford Bottle Shop and Beckford Canteen in Bath (both of which he loved), a handsome neo-brasserie with 11 bedrooms, in what used to be the local Lloyds bank.
He declared it a “brand new classic”, serving starters like fresh crumpets with anchovy butter and a “reassuringly bosky pig’s head fritter” with gooseberry ketchup, or “joyously squeaky” deep-fried Westcombe cheddar curds with Marmite mayo.
The finest dish of the day was halibut cooked in chicken jus with peas, while the burnt butter ice cream was “sublime”. There was just one dud dish to “avoid”: Devonshire crab salad, where the freshness of the meat is smothered in overpowering remoulade.
Tom Parker Bowles - 2026-09-27
