The Guardian
Grace Dent was charmed by this gem on the “Côte d’Azur of Colchester”, where chef Ben Crittenden and his “greeter, server, sommelier and occasional kitchen porter” partner Sophie have reprised their tiny Broadstairs restaurant in a slightly larger format (20 covers or so).
It is, Grace reports, “about as ‘independent’ as a restaurant can get” and fulfils the “quasi-fantastical dream harboured by many hospitality veterans: how about if we opened a tiny place, and took away all those fussy, stressful bits of restaurateuring such as staffing, posh fit-outs and lengthy menus?”
Ben, solo in the kitchen, makes fine produce the star of the show, creating a succession of “punchily flavoured pieces of art”. Among the best is a bowl of whipped goat’s curd that appears towards the end of dinner. “But is it pudding or another savoury course? Who can tell? It’s cheesy, certainly whiffy, with layers of thinly sliced grape, micro herbs, pistachio cake and chopped pistachio. It’s also quite unlike anything I’ve ever been served.”
Grace Dent - 2025-02-23
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