Llandrillo, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“The new team continue the excellent food one has come to expect” according to (practically) all reports on this well-known culinary haven near Lake Bala, which was taken over in 2024 by Gareth Stevenson (formerly a chef at nearby Palé Hall) from Bryan & Susan Webb who had established it over twenty years as one of Wales’s foremost restaurants with rooms. Fans say the cooking is “in a light style now but cooked to perfection” and there’s particular praise for the “excellent list of wines with many unusual vintages” (including from English and Welsh vineyards). Fascinating fact: in the 1980s, it was BBC production designer Peter Kindred who first converted this Georgian hunting lodge into a hotel, whose credits included designing the sets for Fawlty Towers!

“So decadent and romantic, with its dark wood stairs, thick squishy carpet as you tiptoe to dinner and heavy swishy curtains framing idyllic views to the garden” – this Relais & Chateaux property near the banks of the Dee and with views of Eryri National Park can claim both Winston Churchill and Queen Victoria as past guests and was originally built as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Westminster. Curiously, it has struggled a little over the last few years to attract reports in our annual diners’ poll, or other awards (there was a Michelin Green Star in 2021) all of which looks potentially set to change since the 2024 purchase by Anthony Cooper-Barney and his wife Donna. Having announced in May 2025 the recruitment of Edward Marsh as Head Chef they followed up with the coup of attracting star name, Luke Selby who will also join in 2026 after Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons closes for refurbishment. The main dining venue here is the Henry Robertson Dining Room, four- and six-course tasting menus are currently served. Given such upheavals after our annual diners’ poll had concluded, we have, for the time being, left it un-rated.