Fulham, Chinese Restaurant Guide

“Like Rick’s in Casablanca, everybody looking for dim sum in London comes to the Royal China” – whose well-established venues (decorated along the lines of an ’80s disco) in Baker Street, Canary Wharf, Fulham and Harrow deliver the proper Cantonese experience. They “never disappoint” (although “main dishes can be less successful”), but, “given the well-known robotic efficiency of their approach, if you want ambience, you have to bring your own”. One big loss this year, though – their most popular branch, on Queensway – has bitten the dust.