The Times
“Oh my God! Omigodomigodomigod – as the girls outside my daughter’s school squeal when they run up to their friends to show them something mundane on TikTok…” gushed Giles Coren from the train home from Weymouth – “I think I just went to the best restaurant in the world.”
Chef Mike Naidoo’s sustainable fish restaurant, upstairs from a fishmonger’s shop in the Old Fish Market on Weymouth’s quay, had just given him, he said, “one of the happiest working afternoons of my life”.
And it wasn’t just the day-boat fresh fish and seafood that was so special. The “warm, golden brioche” served alongside it was possibly even better. “I’ve never seen bread this good. I’m almost angry. Who has done this?”
Mike’s wife, as it turns out: Tija, from Slovenia, whose pastry also left Giles “reeling at the quality”. All in all, then, a “dreamy” experience – and one not to be missed at £40 for a four-course set menu.
Giles Coren - 2024-03-18
Drinks
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