The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell visited the new restaurant from film director Guy Ritchie, a Texas-style smokehouse at an airfield near Salisbury that is the country counterpart to his Fitzrovia pub Lore of the Land. Unfortunately, William ate his “foulest lunch of the year” – and gave the place a lock, stock and two smoking barrels of a review.
His booking was misplaced, his table was dirty, and the kitchen ran out of both pulled pork and pork belly burnt ends – “Yes, a Texas-style smokehouse runs out of pig. It’s like Big Ben losing its bells or Margaret Thatcher without a handbag.” Nachos were “a splattered mess of stuff”; chicken was “like Epsom in winter – firm, too hard for this pony”; pulled beef was “dismal”; and the chips, Caesar salad sauce, croutons and ice cream were all, William reckoned, “bought in”.
“They call this dirty food. I’d say it was just filthy.”
William Sitwell - 2025-07-06
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