The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell heaped superlatives on “food of fabulous power and flavour” from “a kitchen rich in talent and confidence” in this classic country pub. “Much more of this and Suffolk will be Britain’s new culinary heartland.”
The menu itself “is an education. At its heart was the most beautiful dish of venison I have ever eaten. It had everything you might need to convince a waverer, or even a plant-munching refusenik, as to the worth and enjoyment of eating deer.”
Having lectured us on the delights of “gutsy, hearty, flavourful food”, William rather ruined his point by admitting his failure to appreciate tripe, whether in Suffolk or in the heartlands of Gallic gastronomy. “When I first tried tripe with chef Henry Harris in Lyon 25 years ago, it tasted like deep-fried suitcase. It’s no better now. With whomever, however and wherever you try it.”
Back of the class, Sitwell!
William Sitwell - 2024-03-03
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