The Sunday Times
Chitra Ramaswamy hailed the “sublime” food at the first Scottish branch and sixth in total of a canteen launched by Malaysian-born Sugen Gopal 12 years in a basement near London’s Euston station. It is, she said, “a vanishingly rare example of a street food stall that’s scaled up and stayed true to it roots. At least, so far.”
“The roti is, of course, king, a spiralling work of art requiring all the synonyms in the thesaurus for soft. Stretchy in place, crisp in others, served bunched up into dazzling eddies and flaky folds, it arrives perilously hot from the tawa.”
The supporting dishes are also “generous, layered, authoritative and incredible priced”: beef or chicken kari (curry), whose “flavours are so big and rounded, the spicing intense by not hot”; whole grilled prawns in a fierce, clingy sambal; curry laksa; “superlative dhal”; and a sweet roti to finish.
chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-06-21
