Harden's survey result
Summary
“One of the most iconic interiors in London” – the historic, late-Victorian Criterion restaurant in Piccadilly Circus (built in 1873) – makes the latest addition to the Masala Zone group (opened in 2023) “a new gem in the collection”, whose “opulence really suits an Indian destination”: it’s “worth going just to see the old Criterion, and thankfully the wonderful original decor has been retained”. With “great food and attentive but unobtrusive service” typical of the classy MW Eats group, “all Masala Zone restaurants are excellent”, offering good-value street-food or home- style thalis in four venues. The Covent Garden branch opposite the ROH stage door is tipped for pre- or post-opera dining.
Summary
“What a stunning location!” – the year-old operation on the huge, historical site of ‘The Criterion’ (built in 1873) has brought new prominence to this long-established, budget Indian street-food chain (part of the formidable MW Eats business). It dominates feedback on the group, which has soared into the Top-40 brands mentioned in our annual diners’ poll: “they have created an intoxicating venue using the wonderful 19th-century decor to great effect”. “All their branches are well decorated but the new restaurant is spectacular, with the gold ceiling of the old Criterion Brasserie and lots of mirrors lightening the room”. “And considering its location (right on Piccadilly Circus) the price is very reasonable” (“perfect for a pre-theatre meal”). At all locations, the menu “is almost completely unlike your standard suburban curry house and invites experimentation”: “there are many and varied street-food choices”; and “thalis are especially delicious and extremely filling”. That said, diners reported a few “ordinary” meals at the chain this year – the pressure of incorporating such a demanding new site? Top Tip – “They now do breakfast! My new favourite for visitors and treating the family!”
Summary
“There’s a reason this chain has endured for so long” – its street food and curries are “so authentic”, “imaginative” and “such good value for money”: “you still have to go a long way to beat their thali deals”. Owned by MW Eats (who own the posh Chutney Mary, Amaya, etc), they sold off their Camden Town and Bayswater sites in the last 12 months; and in mid 2023 launched a stunning new landmark branch on Piccadilly Circus, in one of London’s most historic, but (in recent times) most-under-achieving restaurant sites: the magnificent, Neo-Byzantine, mosaicked chamber dating from 1873 that for many years was The Criterion (RIP). Innovations on the new site include breakfast, ‘Indian High Tea’ and late opening.
Summary
“I keep coming back for the reliably distinctive range of Indian dishes… when I’m pushed to try new things I rarely regret it” – the “always interesting menu” at these longstanding pioneers of street food and thalis delivers “very tasty grub in generous portions that’s good value for money”. It’s run by MW Eats (the family company behind some of the capital’s most prestigious subcontinental restaurants).
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Masala Zone?
Restaurant details
Opening hours
Last orders: 11 pm, Sun 10.30 pm
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