Evening Standard
David Ellis had never given a five-star review before his visit to this neighbourhood bistro in the heart of Maida Vale, “on the grounds that nothing is perfect”. And neither was everything at Paulette: they brought the wrong vintage of a wine and forgot a plate of saucisson.
“But these seemed inconsequential, irrelevant. Here is somewhere distinct and individual, with endless charm, which feels like it comes from people who care… I had worried London was losing these sorts of places, given rents and rates favour the corporates.”
Owners François Guerin and Jean-François Lesage “have opened my dream restaurant”, David said – and it was not just the service that cut the mustard: the food was uniformly excellent, including a dish of seiche à la Provençale (cuttlefish in tomato and olive sauce) that “slowed things to what you might call a star-struck halt. Astonishly good”. There were also a “stunning” tarte tatin with Roscoff onions and blue cheese mascarpone, and “perhaps London’s best French fries”.
David Ellis - 2024-06-16
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