The Guardian
Grace Dent stepped out of the concrete and cold of a London winter’s day and into a “movie-set Greece hewn in tones of dappled, early evening Athenian sunshine, all bronze, peach, tan and gold” at a new restaurant currently “flying way under the radar”. “Before I walked in, I was just a woman in thermals with a flaky nose,” she wrote. “But then – bang! – I’m suddenly Christina Onassis sipping a mulberry mournoraki in a rustic yet dashingly chic taverna.”
Thankfully, the food – a “moderately fancy celebration” of “wonderful” modern Greek cooking and ingredients from ex-Connaught chef Angelos Togias – was more than a match for the setting.
Grace began with a tasting of five olive oils in tiny bowls with house flatbread. To follow, the “apparently predictable taramasalata is miles away from the pink, whiffy mush to which we have somehow grown tolerant as a nation”. The mains – rabbit stifado, monkfish fricassée, grilled octopus with a vierge emulsion, lamb dolmadakia, prawn saganaki – and a dessert of Greek yoghurt with quince and cardamom oil – were all “equally enthralling”.
Grace Dent - 2025-02-02The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell was pleasantly surprised by a hearty Greek meal in Kensington Church Street – “all bold flavours and no-punch-pulling bravura” – although a plate of “wild goat from the mountains of Greece” was a little too authentic for his liking.
“Unquestionably this was goat. Goat in all its goatiness. By which I mean it ponged. It reeked. It was musty, earthy and truly goaty. It had everything except the bell.”
Other, tamer dishes were more to William’s taste, including a dozen rich rabbit livers “that enhanced my love and admiration for the cooked bunny”.
William Sitwell - 2025-04-20
Drinks
Extras
