Hedone (British, Modern Restaurant)

Mikael Jonsson and his “totally committed” team create “an extraordinary culinary experience” behind a “modest” façade in outer-Chiswick (where sitting at the counter watching the preparation is a popular option). It’s “one of the best restaurants in the UK”, with a “total focus on sourcing the best ingredients and intensifying their flavours” via “adventurous combinations” as part of a “stunning tasting menu”, and all complemented by “an exceptional wine list”. On the downside, the approach can seem a little “hushed” or “over-anxious”, and for a sceptical minority the whole set-up seems “monumentally over-rated and overpriced”.

“The best ingredients in London” and “unique, technical mastery” underpin “staggering”, “cutting-edge cuisine at its finest” for most who trek to Mikael Jonsson’s open-kitchen HQ, in outer Chiswick. It’s an “idiosyncratic” experience however, and sceptics feel there’s just “too much fuss and self regard”, especially given the “eye-watering expense”. Stop Press – In October 2015 the restaurant will close and re-open with half the number of covers, more complicated cooking, and a focus on rare ingredients and wines. Pricing may change too.

“Truly staggering!”; after three years in operation, Mikael Jonsson’s “unsung” open-kitchen venture, in outer Chiswick, has finally got properly into its stride – his “incredibly clever” modern Scandi dishes deliver “small bites of perfection and amazement”.