Texture

Summary

Aggi Sverrisson’s “sublime”, Icelandic-inspired cuisine – in particular “a refreshing and very imaginative twist on fish” – again wins one of the survey’s highest food-ratings for his well-established flagship, just off Portman Square. To the odd reporter, the low-key space (actually part of a hotel, although you only find out when you look for the WC) can seem “dull and cold”, but most reporters like the fact that “there’s something a bit different about the style of the place”. “Very warm and welcoming” service only adds to its refreshingly un-poncy approach.