The Guardian
Grace Dent revisited a “handy little” Korean dining spot where owner Abby Lee has celebrated its 20th anniversary with an “elegant revamp” that involves bravely scrapping the former table-top barbecue format (although there are still a few table-top grills left in the downstairs private dining room for those who insist).
Familiar classics like beef bulgogi with mushrooms are still available, while he go galbi grilled mackerel is just “as great as ever, and in fact it’s all the better for not having to endure my amateur antics”. New dishes on the menu “lean towards delicate, modern fine dining”, such as mul hwei, prawn, raw salmon and white fish topped with vivid orange trout roe and an iced gochujang vinaigrette.
Unusually for a Korean restaurant, it’s worth making time for desserts such as a warm, fresh, sugary, bean paste doughnut that’s “pure bliss”, or fresh vanilla ice-cream served with slices of persimmon and a spiced, sticky syrup: “absolute joy”.
Grace Dent - 2026-02-15
